The overal texture scale and materials are very good.
The gray blanket needs more work. Or try to leave the bed without the gray blanket on top.
Bedroom scene (First render) Advices please.
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Important notice: All artwork submitted on our public gallery forums gallery forums may or may not be used by OTOY for publication on our website gallery.
If you do not want us to publish your art, please mention it in your post clearly. (put a very red small diagonal cross in the left right corner of the image)
Any images already published on the gallery will be removed if the original author asks us to do so.
We recommend placing your credits on the images so you benefit from the exposure too, and use a minimum image width of 1200 pixels, and use pathtracing or PMC. Thanks for your attention, The OctaneRender Team.
For new users: this forum is moderated. Your first post will appear only after it has been reviewed by a moderator, so it will not show up immediately.
This is necessary to avoid this forum being flooded by spam.
Nice first first render. I agree that you should work on materials a bit. Apart from that, the DOF is too strong and makes the scale look macro, like a toy. Tone it down for more realism.
Here is an improved scene i think... what do you think.
I rendered the image with Path tracing, it took 8 hours and was still noisy... i think 8 hours is too much... what do you guys think?, i will render the scene without the curtains to check if its faster.
i rendered the image 6472x4000, reduced noise with neat image and downscaled it to final resolution 1618x1000.
this time i used 16 depth with PT.
what would you recomend... do you think its finished?
thx for your time
I rendered the image with Path tracing, it took 8 hours and was still noisy... i think 8 hours is too much... what do you guys think?, i will render the scene without the curtains to check if its faster.
i rendered the image 6472x4000, reduced noise with neat image and downscaled it to final resolution 1618x1000.
this time i used 16 depth with PT.
what would you recomend... do you think its finished?
thx for your time
System: Windows 7 64 | GPU: GTX 580 1.5Gb | CPU: Intel Core i7 2.8 Ghz | RAM: 4GB
It is still propper to have some amount of depth of field in your shot.[gk] wrote:Normal sized scene tilshiftet down to dollhouse look. So make sure you dont have any noticable focus.
This has a proper amount of focus
When you take apperture 1.0 - 1.4 you will have stronger blur out of the focus area even with a 35mm lens.
I don't like it when images are too sharp (overall) but many architects want "sharp" images and straight lines

For me this is a creative constraint to see it as a must.
I recommend to have a little bit of blur in the unfocussed areas visible.
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Nice image. I will go with PMC + portals because of the curtains. PMC should be a lot better than Pathtracing when we have trouble illumination. Also the floor i dont like the bump. I would model separate planks with a little bevel at the edges or i will make that bump edge between planks sharper and thinner.
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His camera is wide angle, the more wide an angle is the more is in focus. For interiors you typically let it bake a little longer on the exposure which further reduces blur.Refracty wrote:It is still propper to have some amount of depth of field in your shot.[gk] wrote:Normal sized scene tilshiftet down to dollhouse look. So make sure you dont have any noticable focus.
This has a proper amount of focus
When you take apperture 1.0 - 1.4 you will have stronger blur out of the focus area even with a 35mm lens.
I don't like it when images are too sharp (overall) but many architects want "sharp" images and straight lines
For me this is a creative constraint to see it as a must.
I recommend to have a little bit of blur in the unfocussed areas visible.
His last image looks a bit better.
Its the laws of physics, you cannot have a superwide angle and very narrow depth of field.
yes in cg its possible but it will look like crap and be nothing a real camera can do thus breaking the realistic playground one otherwise try to stride for...
on a second note you image is heavily underexposed.
see attached for illustration.
If you expose to the right you also get rid of noise in the "floor" of the image, not the actual floor but the pixels that stays close to black. in real life shooting with expose to the right principle you make sure you get the least amount of noise with the largest Dynamic range available.
You can see only the very top of the highlights are up but they are clamping, so better get back to the workbench and mess with it ( id surgest to pull some white from the curtains for starters )
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