interesting..

[acc24ex]

http://www.instructables.com/id/A-sands ... ng-real-o/

also anyone tried Agisoft Photoscan? 3d scanning from photos - uses GPU opencl to "render"

[Andrew Mitchell]

[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/28712335[/vimeo]

I've done it with PhotoFly, now 123D Catch and it is pretty easy.

[acc24ex]

embedding videos:
add www in front of vimeo.com

so it works like this:
[vimeo]http://www.vimeo.com/28712335[/vimeo]

.. tryed doing something with autodesks tool 123D.. that one uses cloud and cannot use local cpu or gpu power..
which is a bit of a problem since you need to upload pictures first - I only tried the provided pictures..
OK so far the Agisoft photoscan needs you to mark the object for each picture (actually it is a option, but it is recommended for quality mesh), in order to remove the non essential data - which is a lot of handwork (maybe a greenscreen would work better for that).. the 123D seemes like it doesnt need that process first, but the uploading part is a pain in the ass (while testing anyway) since I have ADSL the uploads are much slower

the photofly render looks bloody great! Did you have to do a lot of retouching? And the materials are they original?

[Andrew Mitchell]

Straight out of meshlab, regular diffuse materials in octane with a sun sequence from Octane, nothing fancy.

check out insight3d, free open source very similar to how photoscan works, got some bugs but does work.

Insight3d

thanks for the vimeo heads up, I was wondering what I was doing wrong.

[acc24ex]

that's some cool stuff, I like this approach to 3d scanning , also have a entry level DSLR so that would give me a reason to use it more, are there any recommendations on lenses

[Andrew Mitchell]

Any prime lens will work, actually any lens will work. The tree stump was taken with a Canon D80 with the kit lens, don't remember the ISO or other data, I'll have to look at the exif data in my project files.

I have also used my cell phone camera to take pictures, HTC Nexus One. I'll dig up some of the projects and post them here along with a workflow "tutorial".

[acc24ex]

how many photos do you need, and are there any rules to follow, camera angles.. maybe you could post the set of pictures you used to get that flythrough.. it looks great
I could take a tour through the forest myself

[Andrew Mitchell]

I have found that around 10-15 degrees offset from each picture is the best, depending on the geometric complexity of the object.

Here some example shots from the set, I took a total of 26 shots.







End result after exporting from photofly into meshlab.






Here is the texture map straight from photofly, in this case it came in two meshes each with its own texture.



While the texture algorithm could use some work, the resulting model and texture is very good, and is a great base to sculpt from.

here is an example of a bust that I did, the end result was converted to a STL and printed on a 3d printer.


As you can see, photofly had some issues with areas with high gloss, like the head, as well as some problems around the neck...



So this is sent to meshlab, 3dCoat, or Zbrush, in this case I used Meshmixer to close the holes, clean the mesh, do some sculpting of missing details and prep for 3d print.



I'll see if I can find a photo of the 3d print, it turned out great.

Total time for the bust, including photographing the subject was probably an less than 2 hours total, and print time was less than 2 hours. Very fast compared to the way I used to have to model a face or organic object.

[acc24ex]

I love all of it - this is almost like a tutorial

Keep us posted with any stuff related to this, cause I for one am pretty enthusiastic about all this tech, and 3d printing ..

so - which software gave best results, and which one would you recommend learning - Im also getting into zbrush a bit

also, I am actively searching for a solution for 3d printing or a CNC mill, but for a price around 1000 euro (not expecting miracles there, just a working machine with a good enough resolution)

so far, the choices are Roland iModela, (around 1k$)
and random noname cnc machines from china such as this:

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-re ... ng-review/
60x40 area.. under 1k $ - not sure about the connectors and parts and software ..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=16497 - user blog

I would appreciate any input on that subject..

I looked at most of those makerbot type 3d printers - the finishings on those machines are butt ugly, and its not really for production of anything you want to sell, I would settle for a really really cheap 3d printer with a bad finish, just for the fun of producing 3d printouts and fun and play - I saw there was one in the making, around 400$ - now thats a cheap 3d printer

[Andrew Mitchell]

I love all of it - this is almost like a tutorial

Keep us posted with any stuff related to this, cause I for one am pretty enthusiastic about all this tech, and 3d printing ..

so - which software gave best results, and which one would you recommend learning - Im also getting into zbrush a bit

also, I am actively searching for a solution for 3d printing or a CNC mill, but for a price around 1000 euro (not expecting miracles there, just a working machine with a good enough resolution)

so far, the choices are Roland iModela, (around 1k$)
and random noname cnc machines from china such as this:

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-re ... ng-review/
60x40 area.. under 1k $ - not sure about the connectors and parts and software ..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=16497 - user blog

I would appreciate any input on that subject..

I looked at most of those makerbot type 3d printers - the finishings on those machines are butt ugly, and its not really for production of anything you want to sell, I would settle for a really really cheap 3d printer with a bad finish, just for the fun of producing 3d printouts and fun and play - I saw there was one in the making, around 400$ - now thats a cheap 3d printer

Taking into consideration the ease of use and output, photofly was probably the better solution for me. While the texture UV mapping is odd, almost PTex-like, it can be fixed in post using 3DCoat or Zbrush; with a proper lighting setup during photography, you can get get textured models very quickly. I even did a test with a HD camera and imported the image sequence from that to generate a rough 3d backplate for a matte background element. Photofly's texturing is probably the best automatic texturing software that I have seen so far.

As far as 3d additive printers, there is quite a bit on the market in the $500 to $2,000 range. to get to full color printers, ZCorp Spectrum Z510, your looking at around the $40,000 range, not including media (powder, binder, cleaner, etc) and maintenance contracts.

If you are looking to print of ABS or similar "plastic" models and only need single colors, check out 3DSystems's Cube.

A more cost effective solution, especially if you are only printing off the occasional model, is Shapeways. They are very reasonable, I have reviewed their media costs and they are comparable (and sometimes cheaper) to what it costs me to print off an item.